8 August 2018
TERRITORY
VENICE AND ISLANDS
San Francesco del Deserto, a peaceful oasis in the heart of the Venetian Lagoon

A very curious thing that I found out during our trip to Venice and its islands is how easy it is to identify the most famous islands from afar, even for the most inexperienced eye. If Burano and Torcello are easily recognizable by their bell towers – the first notoriously crooked, the second with a characteristic square shape – the perimeter of the island of San Francesco del Deserto is completely dotted with very tall cypress trees, which makes it easily distinguishable from Sant’Erasmo and Burano.

It seems that each island in the lagoon has its own personality, a distinctive trait that makes it unique in the world: what I thought of San Francesco Del Deserto as soon as I set foot there was certainly: “what peace!”. Only the chirping of the birds and the roar of the waves interrupt the restorative silence that surrounds this place, home to the Franciscan Minor friars’ convent. The island was in fact donated by the rich Michiel family to the congregation in 1233, after Saint Francis of Assisi landed there in 1220, on his returning from Jerusalem.

But if it is clear why the island is called “San Francesco”, where does the “Desert” come from? In the fifteenth century the friars were forced to leave the convent because of the unhealthy conditions of this part of the lagoon, due to the risk of malaria. However, this lasted only a few decades, and the island soon returned to be inhabited by the friars, who for centuries until today made it a place of prayer and meditation.

Today it is possible to visit the island with the guidance of a Franciscan, or even to spend a few days there, as the monks are open to pilgrims hospitality. Living with the friars is certainly a chance for spiritual growth – and also a significant inner experience for those who are not religious – not only because one can closely observe the convent life, which is divided between moments of prayer and work, but also because it is possible to enjoy the close connection with natural world, that Saint Francis professed himself.

it is certainly the ideal place for those who feel the need to escape, even for a few days, from the frenzy of modern society, to slow down and experience a much simpler lifestyle, which leaves much more space to introspection and to contact with nature.

During our visit we also became aware of a very recent anecdote that made us smile, and that undermines the stereotype that the friars are infinitely patient and inclined to endure anything good. An old friar of the convent discovered a group of boys who had landed on the shores of San Francesco del Deserto. The gang had brought loudspeakers, and was disturbing the quiet of the island listening to loud music. The friar politely asked the boys not to leave, but only to lower the music a bit, so as not to disturb the silence of the convent. It was ignored the first time. With much kindness he asked again, and in response the boys turned up the volume. A third asked him, and the boys laughed at him. At the fourth the friar took the water pump, and took a nice shower to the boys and their electronic devices. From this episode the friars assure us that they no longer suffered any kind of disrespectful intrusion, and the peace of San Francesco del Deserto remains undisturbed!